FLASHMOB AT QUITO’S NEW AIRPORT!

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According to a report by Ecuadorian TV channel Ecuavisa, travellers to Quito from Guayaquil – the country’s most populous city – now prefer to make the journey by bus rather than ‘plane. In other words they would rather travel for eight hours on a bus overnight than make the half-hour journey by air.

Apparently this is due to the frequent delays and cancellations caused by foggy weather at the new airport and the distance between the airport and the centre of Quito. From personal experience I can tell you the trip takes an hour in a taxi (providing there’s no traffic) or a whopping two, to two and a half hours, by bus.

The cost of an “executive” bus trip from Guayaquil to Quito is $12 and transport companies have seen a big increase in demand for tickets since the inauguration of the new airport. Can’t say I’m surprised.

Last night saw a flashmob descend at Quito’s Mariscal Sucre Airport in the shape of the Orquesta Sinfónica Nacional del Ecuador (National Symphony Orchestra of Ecuador), which delivered a rendition of Ravel’s Bolero. Passengers appeared to be rather bemused but offered warm applause and cheers at the conclusion of the performance.

Simply Having Fun!

Boyd and I went to Quito’s new airport last night to collect our lovely friend Susanne who will be staying in Ecuador for the next two weeks. On Sunday we will make a return visit to the beautiful and tranquil Posada del Tigua, high in the Andes, before heading to touristy Baños – where we hope to glimpse Volcano Tungurahua in action – and the colonial city of Cuenca, beloved of American retirees.

We are all looking forward to kicking back, getting in some sight-seeing and simply having fun. Here are some of my favourite fun moments from the past.

My dear friend Peter and I in Volendam, 2004.

My dear friend Peter and I in Volendam, 2004.


I’ve known Peter since we worked together at Simpson of Piccadilly in London in 1978. Here we are in the touristy Dutch fishing village of Volendam kitted out in traditional dress. He totally sprang this on me and I had a blast getting dressed up.

With Alan Cumming at the launch of his fragrance. New York 2004.

With Alan Cumming at the launch of his fragrance. New York 2004.

Everyone loves a celeb, especially when he’s as talented as Scottish actor Alan Cumming. Here we are for the launch of his fragrance “Cumming” (!) in New York, 2004. My dear friend Stephen Cirona, a friend of Alan’s, took me along.

Tropical cocktails with my brother Martyn in Mauritius.

Tropical cocktails with my brother Martyn in Mauritius.

What’s not to love about cheesy tropical cocktails on the stunning island of Mauritius?!

'Baby Jane House' on South McCadden Place in Hancock Park, Los Angeles. 1991.

‘Baby Jane House’ on South McCadden Place in Hancock Park, Los Angeles. 1991.

What Ever Happened To Baby Jane? is a camp horror shlocker starring the two great screen queens of the Thirties and Forties, Bette Davis and Joan Crawford. Here I am in 1991 standing outside the mansion in Hancock Park LA, used for the exterior shots. A kitsch pilgrimage!

Karaoke with Erika!

Karaoke with Erika!

How much fun is karaoke! Gorgeous Erika, drivetime presenter on London radio station Heart FM, sang We are Family along with her Heart FM colleagues.

An evening of karaoke in Quito with Hannah, Benedict, Marlen and Boyd.

An evening of karaoke in Quito with Hannah, Benedict, Marlen and Boyd.

I always think I hate karaoke but after a couple of drinks they have to fight me for the mike! That night I belted out an Isabel Pantoja classic.

Cholita's Wresting, Bolivia.

Cholita’s Wresting, Bolivia.

The Fighting Cholitas are a group of female indigenous lucha libre wrestlers who perform in El Alto, Bolivia. Totally fake but so much fun. 2010.

Sky diving over the Namibian desert in 2009.

Sky diving over the Namibian desert in 2009.

Can you believe I have a morbid fear of heights? After a half-hour flight over the Namibian desert of Africa in the cramped, claustrophobic interior of the ‘plane I was (almost) relieved to jump out.

Mum and Graham Norton.

Mum and Graham Norton.

Mum and I went to a taping of the Graham Norton show back in 2004. I was mortified when guest Donny Osmond sauntered in to the audience and serenaded us with Puppy Love. Mum loved it and we had drinks with Graham after the show.

Llama ride at the Posade de Tigua, Ecuador.

Llama ride at the Posade de Tigua, Ecuador.

Riding a llama at the Posada de Tigua. I shall be doing this again in a few days time!

Carnaval de Guaranda.

Carnaval de Guaranda.

The Carnaval de Guaranda is one of Ecuador’s most popular fiestas. Here I am with my friend District Judge Angel Humberto Pilco Zurita after downing a few shots of the local hooch Pájaro Azul (Blue Bird).

Mum at The House of Bols, Amsterdam.

Mum at The House of Bols, Amsterdam.

What better way to avoid the rain! Cocktails at The House of Bols in Amsterdam.

Vegas 1993

What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas. Me, Pete, Courtney and Lisa in 1993.

Westover Hall with the boys.

Westover Hall with the boys.

My friend Stewart Mecham used to give the best themed parties at Westover Hall in the 1990s attended by the fashion pack and sundry other persons.

Wine tasting in Sonoma, California 2011.

Wine tasting in Sonoma, California 2011.

The last stop on a limo tour of some of Sonoma’s finest vineyards with Courtney, Tom and Gaby. Courtney is the world’s most generous person!

Alfresco lunch in Tere's garden, Colmar, Alsace.

Alfresco lunch in Tere’s garden, Colmar, Alsace.

Teresa, Courtney’s wonderful sister, served us a delicious lunch in her garden in Colmar, Alsace. Escargots and a few bottles of the local wine shared between friends; Heaven!

Surreal! Me as St Patrick in Buenos Aires.

Surreal! Me as St Patrick in Buenos Aires.

Ok, so this was SURREAL. I was asked to appear as St Patrick in the Buenos Aires St Patrick’s Day Parade. I’m not Catholic , nor Irish by the way!

Jews in Ecuador

Me outside of iconic fashion store Browns in the mid 80s with my boss, Sidney Burstein, gazing out of the window.

Me outside of iconic fashion store Browns in the mid 80s with my boss, Sidney Burstein, gazing out of the window.

I didn’t know any Jews until I moved to London and started working in the fashion business at the age of 22. For a good part of the 1980s I was employed as a manager/buyer of iconic store Browns by owner Joan Burstein CBE – affectionately known as Mrs B – of whom I was very fond indeed (she’s still actively involved in the business today, aged 86).

Many of Browns’ clients lived in the Jewish hub of North West London – particularly in the gilded neighbourhoods of St. John’s Wood and Hampstead – and formed a rarefied subset of British Jewry. I was impressed by their dynamism, commitment to the arts and charity, and their loyalty to Israel. They seemed like a special kind of minority to me; Jewish first and British second. A few became friends; even close friends.

But what about British Jewry in general? How well have they assimilated? According to Paul Vallely, in an article he wrote for the Independent newspaper in 2006, “there are about 350,000 Jews in the UK – around two-thirds in London, with around 40,000 in Manchester and significant communities in Leeds, Glasgow, Brighton, Liverpool, Birmingham, Bournemouth, Gateshead and Southend. That spreads the community pretty thin.” He quotes the Jewish peer Lord Janner as saying, “Not less than 30 per cent [marry outside the faith] and that’s really serious.” The implication is that some of their number have integrated and assimilated just a little too well for his liking.

I recently got thinking about Jews in Ecuador. Do they even exist in this predominantly Catholic country? And if so, how assimilated are they? Where do they live?

Lisa Franks of the Berkley Center for Religion, Peace & World Affairs says that “there have been Jews in Ecuador since the Spanish conquest in the 1500s but these early Sephardic families almost completely assimilated or disappeared; by 1904 there were only four Jewish families in the entire country. A new wave of immigration to all American countries began as the Nazis rose in power in the 1930s.

The Jewish population in Ecuador peaked at 4,000 in 1950, most of whom lived in Quito and other urban centers. They were legally restricted to agriculture or industrial occupations but most worked as merchants or professionals who soon became successful…”

Currently, the Jewish community is much smaller. The “Comunidad Judía del Ecuador”, a congregation and community organization in Quito, estimates their active membership at 500 – 600, mostly middle- and upper-class, 25 to 60 years old. Eighty percent speak English. Perhaps there are a 1000 Jews in total in Ecuador. (1)

So are Ecuadorian Jews a reflection of the broader society and how well have they assimilated? After spending a year in Ecuador Lisa Franks believes “that while Jews in Quito have a strong identity and wield economic power, they are fairly assimilated culturally speaking. They speak Spanish, do not keep kosher, and many have non-Jewish Ecuadorian spouses [I suppose they really have no choice]. At the same time, their command of English and business prowess has allowed them to ‘dominate’ sectors of the Ecuadorian economy. While many well-off Ecuadorians live in large apartments in nice neighborhoods, the Jewish homes [she has] visited…are clearly even more wealthy; for example…they have two or three maids instead of one, and the dining rooms comfortably seat thirty people. One man runs his own radio show, another family has a wide-spread bakery chain, others are professors or high-level bureaucrats, and many have their own business.”

Although Lisa Franks claims that Ecuadorian Jews do not keep kosher The Comunidad Judía del Ecuador (Jewish Community of Ecuador) has an on-site kosher kitchen and cafeteria. It not only offers home delivery, but also provides kosher food for some of the cruise ships that sail to Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. It also has squash and tennis courts, a large indoor swimming pool, a youth center and its own soccer field. The complex also boasts one of the largest ballrooms in Quito, which is used for bar mitzvahs, weddings and other social events. And a synagogue of course.

Rolf Stern, who is just completing a six-year term as president of the Jewish Community, has launched an outreach effort designed to attract foreign Jews to migrate to Ecuador. He believes that it’s a great place to live and bring up kids and that the relationships between Jews and the Ecuadorian government and the population at-large are excellent. “Jews are generally admired for being hard-working and are considered to be successful people. There is no anti-Semitism in Ecuador, at least not in the last 30 years.” (2)

Jewish Community Center of Ecuador

Jewish Community Center of Ecuador

Jewish Community Centre of Ecuador Swimming Pool

Jewish Community Centre of Ecuador Swimming Pool

To conclude, Ariel Lackenbacher, 20, who attends Quito’s synagogue, says he feels a strong Jewish connection in a cultural, not a religious way. He feels Judaism, its traditions, made them the individuals they are now. “Every Jewish person in Quito has their own life and their own friends. [They go to different schools, as Jews live all over the city.] But, finally, we are a united community.” (3)

On a personal note I just wish I could find somewhere that sold lox and bagels!

1. “Few in number, strong in faith” by Norma Davidoff Shulman, Richard H. Shulman, The Jerusalem Post. http://www.jpost.com/Jewish-World/Jewish-Features/Few-in-number-strong-in-faith

2. “Jews in Quito prosper near the “middle of the world” by Dan Fellner, The Jewish News of Greater Phoenix. http://global-travel-info.com/quito-ecuador-jewish-community.html/

3. “Few in number, strong in faith” by Norma Davidoff Shulman, Richard H. Shulman, The Jerusalem Post. http://www.jpost.com/Jewish-World/Jewish-Features/Few-in-number-strong-in-faith

Bolón de Verde – A Typical Ecuadorian Snack

Bolón de verde (mashed plantain with shrimp, pork and cheese). Mompiche.

Bolón de verde (mashed plantain with shrimp, pork and cheese). Mompiche.

A good bolón de verde (boh-LOHN deh VEHR-deh) and a cafecito (cup of black coffee) make a great breakfast or afternoon snack in Ecuador. These plantain dumplings are stuffed with cheese and bits of deep-fried pork and are quite addictive.

The best I’ve ever had was in the dusty little beach town of Mompiche; these also included chunks of prawn and were served up with the most delicious passion fruit hot sauce. If you fancy having a go at making them Recetas de Laylita has a great recipe with lots of helpful illustrations.

Bolon de verde or fried green plantain dumplings

Mompiche has a gorgeous stretch of palm-fringed beach and not much else by the way. There are plenty of rustic hostels constructed from bamboo and thatch at around $6 a night, which you’ll end up sharing with some of the local bichos (bugs!). All part of the fun. Rickie and I spent an entertaining evening in a family owned restaurant watching a chicken and a cat competing for the scraps we threw down – the little chicken won every time!

Our hostal in Mompiche. $6 a night including creepy crawlies.

Our hostal in Mompiche. $6 a night including creepy crawlies.

Mompiche.

Mompiche.

Mompiche

Mompiche

Bolón de Verde at Marisquería Malicho's, Mompiche.

Bolón de Verde at Marisquería Malicho’s, Mompiche.

Mompiche.

Mompiche.

The chicken was way faster than the kitty!

The chicken was way faster than the kitty!

The Last Ice Merchant of Ecuador

Baltazar Ushca

Baltazar Ushca

“The Last Ice Merchant” is a visually stunning documentary about a 68 year old ice miner who uses traditional methods to excavate, pack, and haul glacial ice to a market that no longer really needs it, due to the advent of fridges and freezers.

For more than fifty years Baltazar Ushca has made the twice-weekly, four-hour journey to the glaciers of Mount Chimborazo. There, at a height of 16,000 feet, he chops away by hand to remove and shape 60-pound blocks of ice, which he wraps in hay and loads on to his donkeys’ backs. At just 4 feet 11 inches tall he can carry two blocks of ice on his shoulders! Nowadays, ice from Chimborazo is used to make traditional fruit juices or ice creams – locals claim it has healing powers.

Baltazar’s brothers, Gregorio and Juan, also used to climb the mountain with him to excavate the ice. Today, however, Gregorio sells factory-made ice cream, and Juan works in construction. Baltazar is now the last of his breed (in the past, up to forty ice merchants made the journey); when he gives up, the tradition of harvesting glacial ice might be lost forever.

In the small indigenous town of Cuatro Esquinas, where the brothers live, change is happening rapidly. Homes used to be thatch; now they are concrete. Everyone used to speak Quichua, the local Andean language; now kids speak only Spanish. Younger people are seeking easier work in the city. Baltazar says he is happy to work on the mountain, which indigenous people regard as sacred, even though he lives in poverty.

Baltazar Ushca receiving his US visa in order to attend the premiere of the documentary about his life.

Baltazar Ushca receiving his US visa in order to attend the premiere of the documentary about his life.

These days, there seems to be a different option for Ushca – who has become a local celebrity due to international media attention – an option of which his son-in-law, Juan, is very aware. Juan, who keeps him company on his trek, charges foreigners $60 (£38) a day for an excursion to the ice mine. He hopes to take over his father-in-law’s job when he retires.

I’d like to think that turning the iceman into a tourist attraction might help this ancient tradition to survive.

Christina Aguilera’s Returns to Her Latin Roots

Pop star Christina Aguilera has returned to her Latin roots on a duet with Mexican singer Alejandro Fernandez. Released on Wednesday, “Hoy Tengo Ganas de Ti” will be the the theme song for the Mexican telenovela “La Tempestad,” (The Storm) starring Cuban-American of the moment William Levy and ex-Miss Universe Ximena Navarrete.

Along with Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera was one of the biggest stars to emerge from the late-Nineties teen-pop explosion. Aguilera initially stood out from her fellow teen poppers thanks to her operatic, soaring voice which commands a four octave range; later she would delve into pre-rock sounds and make attempts at adult-pop classiness in a way her contemporaries didn’t.

An army brat, Aguilera spent her early childhood traveling with her family from Texas to Japan to New Jersey. She began singing young, dominating the talent shows in Wexler, Pennsylvania, where she moved at age seven with her mother and sister following her parents’ divorce. Aguilera’s claims her Ecuadorian father was abusive – something he has denied in interviews – a topic she’s explored in songs, including “I’m OK” from 2002′s Stripped, and she no longer speaks with him, though last year she didn’t rule out the possibility of meeting up with him sometime.

The former “Mickey Mouse Club” member turned “Dirrty” girl has recently dropped a lot of weight; she was spotted last Sunday in LA during a shopping trip with her boyfriend, Matt Rutler, rocking skinny black jeans and a red sweater. Looking good Christina!

Christina Aguilera, October 2012

Christina Aguilera, October 2012

Christina after her weight loss in LA last weekend.

Christina after her weight loss in LA last weekend.

Ecuador Still Tenth in FIFA’s World Ranking!

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The Ecuadorian national soccer team has maintained tenth place in FIFA’s world ranking published this Thursday with 1,058 points!

With few games this month there were no changes in the top ten, but Honduras are into the top 50, while Belgium reached their highest-ever placing and Switzerland are up to 14th.

Spain leads the ranking with 1,538 points, followed by Germany with 1,428. Of the South American countries Argentina is in 3rd. place with 1,296 points, followed by Colombia in sixth place. Here’s the Top Ten ranking:

FIFA World Ranking May 2013

FIFA World Ranking May 2013

Peru, Ecuador’s next rival in the world cup eliminations, is in 32nd place. Ahead of Peru is Uruguay listed in 17th place, Brazil in 19th place and Chile in 23rd place. The last three South American teams in the publication are Venezuela, placing 36th, Paraguay, 44th, and Bolivia, 58th.

Ecuador’s national soccer team will face Peru in Lima on June 7th and Argentina in Quito on June 11th. I’m going to try to get tickets!