Two visits to Granny and Richard’s last days.

On New Year’s Day I thought it would be great to visit Ricky’s grandparents, though he seemed a little reluctant to go. I’m now so glad we went along as it turned out be the last occasion many of the family would see him alive. None of us realized how unwell he was at the time. Upon returning to Quito he complained of fever and a severe headache but the following day he’d recovered. I put it down to a surfeit of sun.

Ricky's last photo

Ricky's grandparent's house, surrounded by maize.

Local kids playing football.

Mama Mery (Ricky's Mum) with her Father

La Fernanda (Ricky's sister) with Granny and an Uncle

Papa Luis (centre) and cousin Andrés seated next to him.

On Wednesday 4th Ricky felt very unwell again so we jumped in a cab and headed to the emergency dept. of a local hospital of Ricky’s suggestion. I guess we waited an hour and as they couldn’t attend us we cabbed over to the Nueva Clinica Internacional, located just minutes from our apartment. He was immediately seen (by now he was seriously ill) and after tests and X-rays a “good case of pneumonia” was diagnosed. In a bit of a daze I went through the admission procedure and signed a financial guarantee for his hospitalization.

His room overlooked our apartment but he didn’t get to see the view; his eyes were sensitive to daylight and he was hooked up to drips and oxygen. When deprived of oxygen, upon trying to get up and sit on the sofa, or go to the bathroom, he became very agitated indeed. The first morning he fell over and his drips disconnected (a bloody mess), so from then on Tatiana (his sister), Luis (his Dad) and I took turns to stay with him around the clock.

His headaches continued and he continually complained of painful calf muscles; he appreciated the relief that a camphor massage gave him. Time became a blur; I recall a constant succession of nurses and meal times (Taty and I ate most of the desserts – Ricky’s appetite was slight and we had to feed him by hand). I’d just got home one evening from my shift when I got a call to say Ricky needed to be admitted to intensive care; the clinic required I sign another financial guarantee beforehand. He stabilized and intensive care wasn’t required but what if I hadn’t the resources to ensure treatment? Would they have left him to die?

On Monday the 9th Ricky was deemed sufficiently stable to move him to Eugenio Espejo, a public hospital with an excellent reputation. Taty and I accompanied him in the ambulance, a first for both of us: flashing lights and shrieking sirens. The admissions doctor refused to accept him, claiming his condition was far worse than he’d be led to understand, and there weren’t enough ventilators in the event of an emergency. Taty managed to track down a doctor who agreed to take him and I eventually left the hospital at about 11pm.

Christhian, Ricky’s older brother, flew in that night from Minneapolis and was with him when he passed sometime during the night. Thank God he wasn’t alone in his last moments. Taty called me at about 7 or 8 urging me in tears to come to the hospital to tell me the news. As the morning went on so more family arrived. Poor Mery, Richard’s Mum, had been recovering at home from a throat operation and hadn’t seen him since New Year’s day at Granny’s.

Everthing then happened so quickly: choosing the coffin, returning home to select the clothes in which he would be buried and attempting to dress him in the morgue. His poor body was so difficult to manipulate by then that I simply baulked at the doing of it. All of this was accompanied by the soundtrack of a colossal thunder storm. So gothic.

That afternoon Ricky was transferred to a funeraria for a velatorio (wake); so many friends and family turned up. Intensely moving. Both Granny and Grandad sat with Ricky all night. The following day a mass was held accompanied by a blind accordionist (whom I swear I’ve seen busking on the trolley bus!) and his body was interred at El Batan cemetery.

Ricky's Flowers

Ricky's Flowers

Burial

Ricky stayed unselfish till the very end. He was only concerned about my welfare and that of others. The kindest, most sincere and loving person. I still find his sudden illness and death so hard to accept, but the Ecuadorian way of grieving has helped me. To find solace in strangers is incredibly uplifting.

I’ve spent most of my time since with Ricky’s family who have been so wonderful. Cristhian’s wife, Claire, flew in for the funeral; both have been a tower of strength. They’ve accompanied me to various hospital appointments and I consider them family as well as dear friends. Today we went to see the abuelos (grandparents) again. Abuelita was ready and willing to slaughter a guinea pig for lunch, but we didn’t stay for long. I came home gifted with bags of maize and potatoes. Tomorrow I’m off to Sports Day at little Erik’s school…

Granny's path

Potential lunch!

Claire and Cristhian with a two week old pup

Tio (Uncle) Osvaldo with a "cuy grandote" (huge guinea pig!)

La Taty with a handful of delicious uvillas, a native Andean fruit

La Taty surrounded by maize

Mery with los abuelos

¡Feliz Año Nuevo! (slightly belatedly…)

A picture speaks louder than words so here are some snapshots of an Ecuadorian New Year. Just to add that I sallied forth in my yellow underpants (for good luck), ran around the block with a holdall as the minutes ticked over to the New Year (to ensure travel), downed a grape with each of the twelve chimes of the bell during the midnight countdown, while making a wish with each one (hard to do while charging around the block), beat the s**t out of an effigy of the Old Year (very therapuetic) and leapt over his flames during his immolation (not sure why).

Años Viejos or stuffed effigies that represent the old year.

Años Viejos

Wiggy

Caretas or cardboard masks for the effigies to be burned at New Year.

New Year's Eve Revellers, Las Amazonas, Quito

Las Amazonas, Quito

Disfrazados

American Girl

Devil Angel

La Taty beating an effigy of the Old Year

Luis about to drench the Año Viejo with gasoline

Año Viejo burning

Happy New Year!

Lovable Icon or a Racist Symbol?

While lunching at a nearby seafood restaurant with Richard and his Mum a wall illustration caught my eye.

A racist stereotypical image that propagates prejudice, or simply a harmless characterisation?

As a child growing up in the fifties and sixties I collected Robertson’s jam enamel “Golly” badges, played with my Golliwog doll (whom I preferred to Teddy, by virtue of his costume) and read The Story of Little Black Sambo. A perennial TV favourite (though not with me), was The Black and White Minstrel Show in which the entertainers usually performed in blackface.

There’s certainly no doubt that the term Golliwog or wog is a racial slur against dark skinned people. In the mid 80s the fashion store Browns of London dedicated a window to the African American fashion designer Patrick Kelly. I helped Patrick install the window. His clothes were fun and often featured oversized colourful buttons and embroidered lips and hearts.

A Patrick Kelly Heart Dress

His motif was the Golliwog and he gave each of the mannequins a Golly to hold. The window created a furore and the store was picketed by angry anti-racist demonstrators. We removed the offending dolls. As far as Patrick was concerned the Golly (or pickaninny) represented part of his Southern culture. For others it represented an offensive caricature of Black people.

And I’m reminded that I once dined with a VERY FAMOUS BLACK SUPERMODEL. Throughout her career she has been outspoken against the racial bias that exists in the fashion industry, yet that evening she referred to a successful African contemporary of hers as “that pickaninny”. I was shocked. But maybe she considered it acceptable language .

An estimated 5%-8% of the Ecuadorian population is of African descendency and the majority of Afro- ecuatorianos live on the coast. What would they make of the restaurant illustration I wonder?

Gearing up for New Year

Richard’s Mum Mery and his little sister Jessica came by yesterday morning with a much appreciated Christmas present, a retro-looking liquidiser. I was gently abraided for not visiting on Christmas Eve but she knows my reluctance to go out after dark since the “secuestro express” (express kidnapping). She insists though that I spend New Year’s Eve with them and promises that a neighbour will deliver me home. I’m not paranoid, rather very careful these days.

There’ll be a turkey, roasted guinea pigs (or “hamsters” as Mary calls them) and Richard’s Granny and Grandad will attend. Granny’ll be 90 next year and still arises at 2am to work on her smallholding in the moonlight. Not a tooth in her head. She’ll have to suck the cuy (guinea pig).

When the clock ticks over at midnight it’s customary to burn masked effigies of the Año Viejo or Old Year. These life size dolls are made from paper or cardboard and stuffed with straw or sawdust, and often contain fireworks. They can represent politicians, movie stars, comic book characters, sportsmen or even wayward family members…! The tradition started in Ecuador some two centuries ago but has since spread to the rest of Latin America.

According to Ecuadorian writer Juana Córdova Pozo, “This tradition is a powerful feature of our culture. For us, it is an important act of renewal. It helps us to partly erase the past, both the good and bad. We are leaving things behind that must be left behind.”

Mery told me another tradition is to run around the block toting an empty suitcase to ensure travel in the forthcoming year. And no doubt we’ll be obliged to eat twelve grapes at midnight, one at each stroke of the clock, which is supposed to bring luck. I shan’t be taking any chance with the New Year so I’ll be burning an effigy, racing around the block with a travel bag and choking down grapes…

NewYear's preparations in the Plaza Santo Domingo.

A Little Corner of Bethlehem in Quito

In the museum of the Convento de San Francisco there’s a wonderful exhibition of nativity scenes, known variously in Spanish as belenes (Bethlehems), nacimientos o pesebres.

Inspired by different countries, cultures and traditions, my favourites were those from the Andes.

The church and convent are immensely beautiful, and the adjoining museum has some wonderfully bloody sculptures of Christ.

Andean Nacimiento (with giant hands!)

A Peruvian Nacimiento

A Peruvian Nativity Scene

Baroque fountain in the courtyard of the Convent of San Francisco

Courtyard of the Convent of San Francisco

Detail from a wall painting

Interior of the Church of San Francisco

A resident Parrot

Jesus and Peter, School of Quito, 17th C.

Sculptures of Christ

School’s out for Christmas!

It was not what I’d expected…

We turned up at little Erik’s school to watch the annual Christmas show and to my absolute delight it was the parents who provided the entertainment as their kids looked on, enthralled. There were choreographed dances (both traditional and raunchy), comedy skits, and even a “beauty contest” (Miss Recycling!). The nuns appeared most bemused…

Glam "indigenous" Mum

Miss Trapito (Miss Rags), the winner of Miss Recycling!

Little Erik (centre, standing)

Richard's sis "La Taty" with little Erik and Marcia

Las Monjitas (What were they thinking?)

Andy Arrives

Andy drove here yesterday from his home in Canoa and got slapped with a “multa” of $120 and six points on his license for a driving infringement. Had a few friends over to celebrate his arrival and then this morning we mosied over to settle the fine. Andy paused on our way back to the car to have this flattering portrait taken:

There’s nothing like a protracted lunch at Sabroso Manabí, a friendly family owned neighbourhood fish restaurant, to deal with a hangover (or saca la resaca, as they say here) so while Andy wandered off to the Plaza Foch Ricky and I chowed down:

On our way home I spotted these cute dogs in a shop doorway. Now which one is the real McCoy?! Answers on the back of a postcard please…

¡Que tenga una buen dia! (or, Have a Nice Day!)

I awoke this morning to discover I had no internet connection. The credit card I used to pay the account had expired and even though I’d anticipated this a month ago by providing new card details Claro, my service provider, chose to ignore them. I girded my loins and sallied forth to do battle, knowing full well how lacking and frustrating Ecuadorian customer service can be. Three hours later, after being sent from pillar to post (two branches of Claro and a visit to my bank), I was grudgingly permitted to set up a direct debit.

I’ve always loathed the vacuous “have a nice day” mentality but I do rather miss it sometimes. Or perhaps the issue goes deeper than a mere lack of courtesy and helpfulness, and is rooted in the Andean psyche itself. Alexander Von Humboldt (1769-1859), the German naturalist and explorer, had this to say about Ecuadorians:

LOS ECUATORIANOS SON SERES RAROS Y UNICOS: DUERMEN TRANQUILOS EN MEDIO DE RUGIENTES VOLCANES, VIVEN POBRES EN MEDIO DE INCOMPARABLES RIQUEZAS Y SE LEGRAN CON MUSICA TRISTE

Loosely translated, “Ecuadorians are strange and unique beings: they sleep peacefully surrounded by roaring volcanoes, they live poor among incomparable riches and they become happy listening to sad music.”

I believe this holds true today and that there’s an inherent sadness in the psyche of the Serranos (as the highlanders are called) which is reflected in their daily business dealings. Anyhow, I’m back on-line again!